Hoi An

Hoi An town is small and peaceful, the kind of place where you may get stuck for a few days,
whether it is intentional or not. Originally known as Faifo, this antique town is bordered on its
southern side by the Thu Bon River, along which there's a number of small cafes. Despite
the fact that it is now a tourist haven, the artistic atmosphere and local friendly people
create an inviting environment.
Hoi An was an important port developed in 17th century and remained so for a long time.
There used to be canals parallel to the streets, so merchandise could be loaded straight
from the back of houses onto the boats. Hoi An’s continuance as a port lasted right up until
the early years of the 20 century, when the river became silted up forcing the cargo ships to
call at Da Nang instead.
In the past Hoi An has been used by the Japanese, Portuguese, Dutch, French and the
large remaining Chinese community where all sorts of produce and wares were traded.
Remnants of these past traders’ influences can still be seen lining the streets of Hoi An.
There are nine different types of historical sites in Hoi An with an average age of 200 years.
They include private houses, family chapels, community halls, communal houses,
temples, pagodas, bridges, wells and tombs. Many of these buildings have been maintained
close to their original form, allowing you imagination to recreate a prosperous trading town.
The houses are small and colorful with wooden doors and two round "wooden house's eyes"
above, window shutters and ornamental furniture. A pleasant change from the iron bars and
metal grates of other towns.
Hoi An is full of shops selling artwork, from lifelike memorial family portraits, to stylized
images of Hoi An houses and streets. Next door to the art shops are places selling souvenir
statues, ceramic plates, and ‘antique’ bowls. At the market place beside the
river, you can pick up almost anything you want. Tourists are often being lured into the
markets to buy silk and to have quality garments tailor made. You can have anything from
dresses and trousers to shirts and hats made for a cheap price.
Another noticeable quality of Hoi An is its relative silence. There are few cars and people do
not feel the urge to use their horns every two seconds. The streets are filled with the hum of
voices, motorbikes and the shuffling of thongs along the ground. Hoi An is small enough to
get around on foot, and you will need a set of wheels if you are going to Cue Dai Beach, or
on a day trip to the Marble Mountains or Da Nang. A relaxing activity around sunset is to
hire a boat from the waterside by the market place. Many of the locals will wait on the river
and offer you this service throughout the day and night.

Merchant Houses
Many of the old merchant houses are lived in by the locals, but fortunately are beautifully
preserved. They ca be typically described as having a narrow and lofty interior with a barrel
vault ceiling. The street entrance has a shop front where the merchant used to display his
goods. This is still used for his purpose on modern Hoi An with its numerous galleries and
antique shops. There is also a back room where the merchant’s family,
apprentices and servants lived. The entire inside of the house is made of deeply polished
hardwood. Walls, columns and entrances are decorated with poems, words, symbols, and
patterns. Much of the heavy ornate furniture are originals, however some pieces are
replicas. Private houses in this style open to travelers include Tan Ky House that has staff  
that speak fluent English and French.

Japanese Bridge (chua Cau)
This bridge was built in 1953 by the Japanese, although this may be hard to pick by its
name! Its base is made of stone and the rest of ironwood, jackwood and other hardwoods.
The bridge’s purity has been ruined over time with Chinese and Vietnamese
ornamentation. There is a pagoda built into one side of the bridge. The bridge is still used
as a popular thoroughfare and is on the western end of Tran Phu street.

Phuc Kien Community Hall
This is a Chinese Community Hall, but has other uses as a temple, shrine, place of ancestor
worship, and a venue for conferences. The Chinese maintain practicality in their worship but
since most things in life ca not be guaranteed, superstition also plays a large part in their
religious beliefs. The rear contains an altar dedicated to the three gods of health, wealth,
and longevity. Three is even a goddess who will stop your baby crying for a sufficient tip.
Other community and assembly halls include: the Hainan Chinese Assembly, the ChaoZhou
Assembly Hall etc.

Assembly Hall of the Cantonese Chinese Congregation
This is beside the Japanese Bridge at 176 Tran Phu street and is a very well maintained,
bright and colorful assembly hall. It was founded in 1786 and shoes must be removed
before entering.

Da Nang  
Da Nang was the landing point of both the French and the Americans during their stints in
Vietnam. When the French established a garrison in Da Nang (then called Tourane),
more soldiers died from disease than the associated fighting in establishing the garrison.
There is now a small cemetery dedicated to them.
During the Vietnam War, Da Nang was the home to one fifth of all US servicemen based in
Vietnam. This made Da Nang on of the heaviest defended cities in South Vietnam, yet it
eventually fell to the North Vietnamese in 1975 with hardly a bullet fired.
Da Nang marks the halfway point between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City and was the first
place to organize its own local communist party committee. The city is fairly featureless, and
if you are coming from the tranquil setting of Lang Co, Hoi An, or anywhere for that matter,
Da Nang is an extreme disappointment. It is a busy, dusty, colorless city, the fourth largest
in Vietnam, and one of the largest business centers. Unless you are in Da Nang for
business, chances are you will pass straight through. Da Nang does have a
fascinating Cham Museum that contains an excellent collection of Cham art. However, the
main reason for staying in Da Nang is in the surrounding region. China Beach, the Marble
Mountains, Hoi An and My Son are all within striking distance of Da mange, though it is more
pleasant to stay in Hoi An and visit these sights.

Lang Co Beach
If you were not planning on staying in Lang Co, a drive through may change your mind. The
main street is lined with palm trees enticing you to go for a swim in the crystal clear waters
that lap onto fine white sandy beaches. Lang Co is on a sand spit peninsula with a sparkling
lagoon on one side, and a long beach lining the South China Sea on the other. This is one
of the most beautiful places in Vietnam, and is yet to be developed extensively for tourists,
which is probably a good thing.

Hai Van Pass
Travelling by road between Lang Co and Da Nang, you will have to get over the Hai Van
Pass. This pass is created by a spur from the Truong Son Mountain Range that extends to
the coast. This extremely mountainous road, with its sensational views, is the cause of many
local vehicles breaking down. So if you are on one, allow yourself plenty of time. The view
from the top of the pass is extraordinarily beautiful and well worth a stop to take it all in.
The train goes through tunnels at the base of the mountain and along the shoreline, so you
will miss out on the spectacular views from the top. However you will see some awesome
scenery nonetheless.

Cham Museum
The Cham Museum is the main attraction of Da Nang and is worth the trip, even if it is from
Hoi An. This old sandstone building houses an excellent collection of Cham art and
sculpture. The museum was built between 1915 and 1916, with Da Nang being chosen due
to its proximity to the themes of Cham architecture, and was enlarged in 1936 as the
collection of works increased. There are now over 300 pieces of sculpture and they are all
original pieces of work. The subjects of the sculpture range through a vast ten rooms of the
museum bears the name of the district in which the relic were found.

China Beach
China Beach extends north and south of the Marble Mountains and was made famous by
the war and subsequent TV series. China Beach is within cycling distance of Da Nang and it
was this close proximity that led to it being used as an R&R destination for American
soldiers during the war. It is a long beach that stretches all the way down to Cua Dai beach
at Hoi An, though you will get a larger surf at China beach. China beach actually hosted
Vietnam’s first International Surfing Competition in 1992. There is some
controversy as to whether this was the real China Beach or if it was the beach called My
Khe, further to the north.

My Khe Beach
My Khe is the beach directly east of Da Nang on the South China Sea. By road it is about 6
km from the centre of town to the ocean, by crossing the Han River via the Nguyen Van Troi
Bridge. Turn left after the river crossing onto the main road, then a right after a couple of
kilometers, and follow this street until you hit the water. My Khe Beach and China Beach are
only 65 km apart and they are connected by the same stretch of coastline and
uninterrupted sand. This proximity to each other makes it easy to understand to confusion
towards the real ‘China Beach’, as it is essentially the same beach.

Marble Mountains
The Marble Mountains are made up of five limestone outcrops in isolation from the
surrounding plains, each riddled with caves and grottoes, with some made into pagodas and
shrines. Each mountain represents one of the five elements of the universe, being
water, wood, fire, metal and earth. The main mount, representing water, has a path to the
top with two entrances open to tourists. You can also enter from the second entrance at the
reverse side, farther down the road, which is a much less strenuous climb. The top offers
spectacular views of Da Nang and the surrounding Marble Mountains. A better vantage
point is reached through a small hole at the top of one of the caves, with the views including
China Beach and Cham island.
As you start climbing the stairs, you will be accosted by young children offering to guide you
or sell you stone carvings. The guides can be quite good value, as for payment they
often just want you to buy a small stone carving, a great pressie for the folks back home.
Come of the larger caves have been transformed for religious purposes, and Buddha
statues are guilt within them along with all the associated guardians. Some of these caves
are quite eerie with the pungent smell in incense sitting in the air and the walls all covered in
bullet marks from small arms fighting during the Vietnam War.
During the Vietnam war there was some violent fighting which went on in cave to cave
battles. In Huyen Khong cave, one of the large holes in the ceiling was caused y a bomb.
Within this cave there are a number of shrines, temple guards and Buddha statues, and
there are still stalactites on the ceiling. Off to the side of the cave there are two small
stalactites that are believed to represent breasts, one is dripping whilst the other is dry.        
According to legend, when Emperor Tu Duc entered and touched one of the stalactites, it
stopped dropping and never has since. At the base of Marble Mountains there are a large
number of stone carving shops reminiscent of Mahalliburipuram, India, as all you can hear is
the endless chipping away of stone. All these stores are very keen to sell you a three foot
high temple dog.

My Son Sanctuary  
My Son has what is arguably the best collection of Cham art and architecture in its natural
setting in Vietnam. It is somewhat of an arduous journey to get out there, but is well worth
the effort. If you are not willing to risk life and limb to visit Angkor, at least My Son will give
you a little taste of what it must be like. Though some of the monuments were destroyed by
the war or thieves, but what remains is still considerable. Many of the structures are
overgrown with dense vegetation but you can get inside some of them.

Cua Dai beach  
The beach is the closest to Hoi An, very beautiful and is well worth a visit to cool off when
the heats starts to get to you. The only eyesore are the bizarre changing huts and
bungalows. It is an incredibly long beach with loads of room to wander off for a bit of
personal space, which is so difficult to find in Vietnam. If you spend a day at the beach and
elect to take a deckchair, you will be asked to buy either a baguette, some lovely pineapple
or a drink, otherwise you will have to pay for the seat. All these prices are
inflated, but the pineapple in particular is delicious.




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